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LOKACIJA // Valter odela po meriThe Belgrade studio for making and sewing made to measure suits
VALTER – MADE TO MEASURE
Belgrade, 7518. / 2010.
The Belgrade studio for making and sewing made to measure suits with the Valter’s fashion designer’s seal.
Nurturing this segment as our own child, we managed to gain the trust of many male clients over the past ten years, but with the tremendous impact of their better half, who have recognized things for their man through design, material selection, sophisticated details and innovative solutions, but never avoiding conventional clothes for everyday and special occasions.
As a Belgrade brand, naturally, VALTER has earned a huge Belgrade audience, as well as audiences from all over Serbia, the former Yugoslavia, as well as a large number of clients from Europe and the US.
WIDE ASSORTMENT – from raincoats, coats, jackets, suits, shirts, trousers, t-shirts and ties… Everything is done on the spot, in front of your eyes and with great choice of materials, layouts and details with our help selecting a model by taking measurements on the spot until that is IT.
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Yours, VALTER
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PROCESS – FROM SELECTION TO THE MANUFACTURING OF THE VALTER MEN’S SUIT
With this text, we want to bring our clients and readers closer to the whole experience and process that they can expect in the Valter tailor’s studio when choosing and sewing made to measure clothes.
In principle, there are two basic ways of making tailor-made clothes: bespoke (a specific way of making a suit where every step in production is specifically prepared and realized for each client separately) and MTM – Made to Measure (sewn and tailored according to the client’s measurements based on existing models). In our studio, MTM – Made to Measure service is available to the client, in contrast to the classic “MTM” process offered by most other tailor’s ateliers, the Valter process is more flexible and oriented towards the needs of the client. This modified process was created as a result of many years of work with clients and constant improvement of all production stages.
In general, we can split the custom clothing design process into two phases:
FIRST PHASE – includes activities that need to be undertaken prior to the start of the production process (model selection, sketching, taking measurements).
SECOND PHASE – Includes activities that are performed during the production process itself, such as cutting, sewing and ironing.
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FIRST PHASE is made of four steps:
FIRST STEP – Getting to know the client. The moment when the client and the tailor exchange important information that will later determine the garment and creation process. It is on the tailor to recognize the client’s need and his sensibility, and on the client is to be as precise as possible in the requirements that he is putting in front of the tailor.
SECOND STEP – Choosing the desired material and defining the model. By choosing quality fabrics, we make a long-term investment and ensure that with proper maintenance, the garment can last for decades. At any moment our tailoring studio offers a wide range of materials, mostly from Italian manufacturers. In addition to the main fabric, the client has the opportunity to choose from the following construction elements, such as inner lining fabrics, decorative ribbons, ends, buttons…
THIRD STEP – Defining, ie. sketching the model. This is the step in which the appearance of a garment is defined in detail on the basis of the client’s request, and with the professional help of the our studio stylist.
FOURTH STEP – Taking measurements. Unlike the classic MTM process, in our sewing studio, the measurements are taken at more than N positions. This way, we ensure that the suit made for the client will be a perfectly tailored shape for the first test and that the corrections that need to be performed are minimal. Finally, with the measurements taken we finish the first phase, after which we approach the production stage.
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THE SECOND PHASE consists of processes that precede the sewing, which are:
⋅ Choosing an existing one or creating a sewing pattern (the sewing pattern represents the cut and shaped thicker paper according to the ready-made size of a garment). On the basis of the measurements, the size of the pattern is determined, i.e. the clothing size. The new sewing pattern is made only when the client drastically deviates from the ready-to-wear clothing size numbers, or when it comes to an entirely new model, or when it comes to creating pieces with special proportions and designs.
⋅ Transferring measures to the material from which suit will be tailored and sewed. The selected sewing pattern is placed on the material, the lines are drawn, and some corrections are made based on the measurements taken so that the shape of the drawn model corresponding 100% to the measurements taken.
⋅ Material Cutting Process. In addition to the main fabric, other construction elements, such as lining, adhesive canvas and plastic are cut.
⋅ Gluing or bonding the fabric with a sticky cloth. This process is carried out on special presses that operate at high temperatures. For his clients, Valter uses bi-elastic canvases that allow maximum mobility primarily in the shoulder and chest area.
After preparation, the sewing processes and finalizing of the suits follow. These processes are divided into subsequent activities:
⋅ Sewing or assembly of a garment into one whole based on the elements and the given model. During the sewing process, the process of intermediate ironing of each cut-out element is carried out, which ensures precise fitting and easier final ironing.
⋅ A specific process of creating a sleeve edge finishes, putting on the sleeves and forming chest area. In the process of forming the chest area, we introduce an important construction element called “Canvas” (a specific fabric made of camel or horse hair that serves to keep the foreleg of the jacket firmer and more stable).
⋅ Work on details. Our studio is equipped with special finishing machines such as an AMF stitching machine which is used for making decorative thread forms on lapels, back vents and sleeves. In addition to the aesthetics, these thread forms give the garment a firmness and compactness.
⋅ Final Ironing. A very delicate process requiring exceptional feeling for fabric and construction. During this process, the garment goes through the final control of our experienced tailors.
⋅ A test. Our rich experience shows that one or two tests are required, all depending on the specificity of the garment, the design and the client’s requirements.
The first test is usually set up within two to three weeks. At the first test fitting, corrections and adjustments are made to make the garment as close as possible to the customer’s request. The most common corrections are in the area of the waist, back, thigh width, legs and pants length.
The second test, depending on the number of corrections to be made, is scheduled within a few days. On the second test, a client can expect a model that is either 100 percent complete or with minimal corrections needed that can be done on the spot.
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